Delectable kebabs, scented biryani, and airy, ethereal desserts.
The metropolis in India's north of Lucknow has long been a food lovers' paradise, with inhabitants and visitors equally celebrating its superb cuisine.
A Global Honor
Last month, The United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization honored it as a Creative City of Gastronomy – including it in a exclusive list of global cities and kindling hopes that it will spotlight Lucknow's sublime food. With this title, it becomes part of a international community of over 400 urban centers across more than 100 countries dedicated to promoting "artistic expression as a driver of development that sustains urban life".
The accolade "stands as proof of its profound gastronomic legacy and dynamic culinary scene," as noted by a representative from Unesco's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is just the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was picked in 2019 – to secure a position in this coveted list of seventy urban centers around the world.
A Metropolis Shaped by Cuisine
The honor for this time-honored city is little surprise to its locals or avid food lovers. Many share the opinion that it is "a recognition that was delayed".
With the UNESCO accolade, this cherished, chaotic, and eclectic city – the administrative center of India's largest state – is now in the limelight for what has perennially shaped its essence: an immense love for food.
"'What will be cooked, the method of preparation' is a continued dialogue from morning until night in many homes," states a local cultural expert. "And you are truly evaluated by the quality of food that is produced in your kitchen."
An Imperial Food Tradition
The Nawabi City – as it's popularly called after its 18th and 19th-century wealthy Muslim rulers – is renowned for its tender kebabs and a distinctive take on biryani that were conceived, evolved, and raised to extraordinary levels in their imperial kitchens.
These royal kitchens were centers of gastronomic creativity, fusing Persian and indigenous Indian styles to create what became known as the culinary tradition of Awadh.
It was during this time that Lucknow's most famous kebabs were created. The story goes that the mutton galouti was invented to cater to an ageing nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His culinary artists ground the meat with raw papaya, saffron, and a blend of spices and made it so fine that it required no chewing.
But perhaps the most significant contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a low, leisurely heat, with the container's cover securely sealed with dough.
Beyond Kebabs and Biryani
In addition to the obvious kebabs and biryani, the cooks also developed a repertoire of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a sweet bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not just about kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a haven for vegetarians.
The local Baniya community's cuisine not only showcases seasonal produce but also gives the city its highly curated Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – tangy fried snacks.
Hidden Gems and Legacy Eateries
Almost on countless corners, there are tiny kiosks and carts – little-known gems that are extremely favored by the locals.
In the city center of Hazratganj, huge crowds start gathering from early morning at a legendary tea stall to get a piping hot cup of milky masala chai, offered in kulhads, along with fluffy buns slathered with hand-churned white butter.
To start the day, one can make their way to a simple joint situated in the old city area of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was established, the place is still highly popular for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Preserving Tradition for the Future
The city also boasts unique seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a airy dessert savored in the winter. The process of making it is scientific and demanding. The cook beats the milk and then sets it out at night, allowing the dew to give it its unique light consistency.
On chilly mornings, street vendors are often seen in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. Some but say that their children do not want to master the art.
A renowned chef from Lucknow has noted that the city's immense food legacy puts it among the best of the Indian street food experience. The significant impact from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will materialize only if Lucknow can now build recognition about its under-the-radar eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow tells a story – influenced by generational food businesses, from humble street carts to busy restaurants, and secret family recipes.
The international acclaim, it is hoped, will inspire more people worldwide to explore these tales and travel to the city to taste the gastronomic treasures of Lucknow.
